National Museum, New Delhi

Jatan
Collection
Collection Beyond Galleries
Curatorial Corner
- Curator’s corner
- Conservator’s corner

Jewellery

The Jewellery gallery at the national museum is called ‘Alamkara’ - The Beauty of Ornament, encompassing the most extensive collection of jewellery in India, with more than 250 items displayed here to tell the story of Indian jewellery. From the beautifully tumbled agate bead necklaces of Mohenjodaro and Harappa to the fabulous jewels adorned with images of gods and goddesses to the magnificent items that once reposed in the treasuries of the Mughal emperors and the maharajas, the collection spans important periods in Indian history. Spanning a legacy of five thousand years, the jewellery of India is a striking expression of the country’s aesthetic and cultural history. Jewellery collection at the National Museum celebrates diverse forms, the beauty of Indian design, and the genius of Indian craftsmanship.

Jewellery

Head ornament (sheeshphul) 57.10/6 Gold, rubies, emeralds, diamonds, pearls Rajasthan, India late 19th century The hair ornament (sheeshphul) in the form of an openwork flowerhead centering upon a rose-cut diamond and surrounded by concentric circles of petals set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Around the edge a row of seed pearls are threaded through gold loops.

Jewellery

Turban ornament (sarpech) 57.10/9 Gold, diamonds, emeralds Rajasthan, India 19th century The turban jewel (sarpech) designed as three openwork emerald and diamond-set foliate cluster panels. The center panel is set with a large hexagonal emerald carved with a chrysanthemum flower and the two side panels each center upon a rectangular emerald carved with a floral motif. The tapering scroll aigrette with a row of emeralds in the center and flanked by diamond petals with a single emerald drop and five emerald drops suspended below.

Jewellery

Armband (bazuband) 63.784 Gold, rubies, sapphire, cat eye, yellow sapphire, emerald, diamond, pearl, coral, hessonite, enamel North India 19th century The armband (bazuband) in three hinged sections, the center of rectangular form with pear-shaped pieces on either side. The armband serves as an amulet set with the nine celestial gems or navaratna kundan-set in gold in a floral design on a green enamel ground framed within a border with diamonds set within leaf outlines on a red ground. The two side pieces center on a flower with a diamond center and ruby petals on a turquoise blue enamel ground within a diamond-set leaf border. The reverse of the amulet is enamelled with small white flowers and green leaves on a red ground.

Jewellery

Belt (kamarband) 82.259 Gold, diamonds, rubies, enamel North India 19th century The belt (kamarband) of gold in the form of eighty-four rectangular interlocking plaques in two rows, each with a floral motif set with diamonds and cabochon rubies on a green and gold ground. On one side, the drop shaped petal of the flower projects in a semi-circle which fits into a corresponding semi-circular recess in the next plaque. The clasp of eight similar plaques arranged vertically. The reverse is plain gold.

Jewellery

Bangle (gajredar kada) 87.1167/1 Gold, diamonds, rubies, pearls, enamel Bikaner, Rajasthan 19th century The hinged bangle (gajredar kada) of gold with a design of flowerheads and leaves, kundan set with diamonds and rubies on a blue and gold enamel ground on the front. The upper portion of the bangle, on either side of the fastening has a meshwork of seed pearls woven in gold wire simulating jasmine (gajre) buds. The inside is decorated with red flowers and green leaves on a white ground.

Jewellery

Nose ring (balu) 87.1168 Gold, semi precious stones, pearls. Himachal Pradesh Early 20th century Dia- 10 cm The large nose ring with a gem-set lotus and bird in the middle set above a row of semi-precious gems. It is decorated with red and white gems surrounded by tiny pearls. Delicate gold leaves interspersed with gem-set crescent shaped and fish-shaped elements fringe the bottom of the nose ring. On the upper portion a drop-shaped gem-set pendant from which are suspended seven gold leaves each with a turquoise in the middle within a granulated frame. A chain of stamped gold flowers with a fringe of gold leaves and pearls are attached to the nose ring.

Jewellery

Necklace (kaluthiru) 89.1015 Gold Chettinad, South India 19th century Wt- 597.7 gms The necklace (kaluthiru) is made up of three claw-like pendants strung on a cord with round and tubular beads. The kaluthiru, derives its name from kaluthu meaning neck and uru meaning bead is the marriage necklace of the Nattukottai Chettiar community of Tamil Nadu. The claw-like pendants are believed to be modelled on shell forms or the paws of a tiger. Embellished with pyramidal architectural forms, wire work and beautifully crafted open work decoration, the three pendants are strung with fourteen gadrooned beads, eight cylindrical beads with fine granulation work and two elongated rectangular beads at the end that are decorated with wire and granules.

Jewellery

Head ornament (jhumar) 89.1030 Gold, diamonds, pearls Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh Late 19th century The head ornament (jhumar) with a semi-circular openwork foliate panel with a design of a crescent moon all set with diamonds and green enamel and surmounted with a gold hook. Fourteen rows of pearls interspersed with ruby beads from the bottom are attached to a crescent shaped panel set with diamonds and suspending gem set pieces and bunches of pearls below. The jewel is worn pinned to the hair on one side of the head.

Jewellery

Necklace (kanthi) 90.940 Gold, diamonds, emeralds Rajasthan, India 19th century The necklace (kanthi) of openwork foliate design centering upon a lotus in full bloom set with diamonds with graduating panels of lotus flowers set with diamonds on either side. A row of pearls set in gold cups on top and a fringe of emerald beads at the bottom. The necklace is attached to three gold chains. The reverse is enamelled with red and green floral motifs on a white ground.

Jewellery

Necklace (manga malai) 90.752 Gold, rubies, white sapphires South India Early 20th century The necklace (manga malai) is made up of forty-six mango-shaped pendants each set with a white sapphire in the middle and surrounded by cabochon rubies. Each mango pendant is interspersed with trefoil- shaped elements set with cabochon rubies. The units are strung on a flexible flat woven gold cord.

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