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Decorative Arts

Pallu - end panel of a saree

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Pallu - end panel of a saree
C.1650 AD

Place of origin: Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh
Materials: Silk, cotton brocade with gold thread
Dimensions: L: 62 W: 87 cm
Acc.no: 51.229/a

An outstanding piece of textile in historical perspective exceptionally significant, attesting not only the prevalence of brocade weaving in India at such an early date but also the prevalence of saree fashion as a female wear of which not many examples are seen even in those days miniatures, this light orange cotton piece brocaded with zari comprises the pallu - end panel, of a saree from Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh. Worldwide known for their rare elegance Chanderi sarees are completely handloom woven consisting of cotton warp and silk weft and pure gold or silver zari brocade.

The pallu has been designed with two rows of fourteen roundels, seven in each row. One of the most fascinating features of this saree, each roundel portrays a scene of animal fight. This design-pattern is usually known as 'Shikaragah'. These roundels portray variously the lions hunting deer, buffaloes engaged in mutual fight, deer posing a fight to a bear... Each roundel is surrounded by a pair of parrots and floral motifs, and further, with two bands of floral creepers inside the roundel. On the bottom side there are rows of dancing peacocks, all conjointly make the pallu exceptionally attractive. This is a magnificent example of 17th century craftsmanship and appears to have been made to order.

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