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19th Century A.D
Place of origin: Central India
Materials: Silk, gota, glass beads woven, stitched
Dimensions: Dia. 16 cm.
Acc. no.: 89.85
Different from a turban worn simply by wrapping and folding, this headgear, perhaps influenced by European stitched hats, has a permanent form and style which it obtained by stitching. Each individual, a rank, class, community or race had a specific style of turban from the 2nd century BC, that is, the period of Shungas itself, Mughal emperors and many of the Rajput princes having their own styles of turbans sometimes known by the innovators' names, such as Jahangiri turban however, such turban as this, stitched to a permanent shape, emerged in Indian costume fashions in late 18th or early19th century. Amongst multiple changes in a turban's shape, style and mode of wearing and the material it was fabricated from this style of stitched pagri is totally different from all prior or even subsequent fashions.
This stitched pagri having a fixed form, designed perhaps for a particular class or community, in any case rich and elite, has been fashioned from a gold-thread inter-woven silk length, widely purple, and elaborately worked with silver thread. The pagri consists of three main components : one, the main part with deep purple stripes binding it, worn over the head as a European style stitched hat second, the little deep purple fabric hanging at the back, identical to early versions of turbans having similar hanging ends and, third, a turra, a glass beads hanging in front on the right hand side. The binding purple stripes, hanging end-parts, and turra, all are the features added to the pagri for enhancing its beauty.